Princess Eugenie & Jack’s Wedding: The Greville Emerald Kokoshnik Tiara

Click here for all posts on this wedding!

I assumed that Princess Eugenie would wear her mother’s tiara, the York Diamond Tiara, when she married Jack Brooksbank; I’m happy to say I was completely wrong. The tiara that we got instead is sort of a deep cut from the royal vaults – one probably only known to those who dig deep into the unworn pieces of the Queen’s jewel collection. This tiara was suspected to be in the royal vaults, but since it hasn't been worn since it came into royal hands (just, oh, 76 years ago or so), you really couldn't be sure.

Royal Family screencap

The Greville Emerald Kokoshnik Tiara was made by Boucheron for the Hon. Mrs. Ronald Greville in 1919 and was bequeathed by Mrs. Greville to Queen Elizabeth, later the Queen Mother, in 1942. Mrs. Greville was a social climber regarded as a snob and a gossip by many ("a galumphing, greedy, snobbish old toad who watered her chops at the sight of royalty and the Prince of Wales’s set, and did nothing for anybody except the rich," in the eloquently savage words of Cecil Beaton) - but to the royals whose company she sought, she was a good friend.

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She was also a tremendous collector of jewelry and a frequent patron of Boucheron and Cartier. The extraordinary collection inherited by Queen Elizabeth is reported to have included over 60 pieces, many of which we still can’t identify today. The Greville bequest is such an important part of the jewelry collection of the Queen Mother (and now of the Queen's collection, since she inherited all her mother’s jewelry), I wrote a two-part series on it at the Jewel Vault: check out Part 1 here and Part 2 here.

The Greville Emerald Kokoshnik Tiara
Boucheron

But back to the Greville Emerald Kokoshnik Tiara. An archival photo from Boucheron was included in Boucheron: The Secret Archives by Vincent Meylan, which includes excellent information on the Greville pieces thanks to the Boucheron archives. However, the tiara itself hadn’t been seen on any member of the royal family since it was inherited, casting doubt on whether it still existed. (Mrs. Greville was fond of changing her jewels.) We can now obviously confirm that it was in the bequest the entire time. The Greville Emerald Kokoshnik Tiara was presumably inherited by the Queen on her mother’s death in 2002. The Queen loaned it to Princess Eugenie for her wedding to Jack Brooksbank.

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It’s a striking piece, isn’t it? Designed in the kokoshnik style popularized at the Russian imperial court, the tiara includes brilliant and rose cut diamonds pavé-set in platinum with a central emerald and emeralds on either side (the official press release lists six emeralds on either side; only four or five to a side are visible). According to Boucheron: The Secret Archives, the oval central emerald is a whopping 93.70 carats. (Worth noting: the same book, drawing from Boucheron’s own archives, states the piece was bought by Mrs. Greville in 1921.)

Royal Family screencap

It’s hard to imagine how such a piece could go unworn for more than 75 years. Things did tend to remain tucked away in the Queen Mother’s collection, though; she had her favorite pieces and rarely strayed from those. (She did wear other emerald pieces that were reportedly part of the bequest, such as the magnificent Greville Emerald Necklace.)

Royal Family screencap

As a wedding tiara, it went perfectly with the color scheme and with the diamond and emerald earrings the bride received from the groom. And of course with Princess Eugenie’s overall look, which we covered here.

October 12, 2018

Tiara Thursday: The Countess of Villagonzalo's Meander Tiara

We've covered tiaras that can be necklaces, tiaras that can be brooches, and tiaras that can be reduced in size...but a tiara that's actually two tiaras stacked on top of each other might be a new one for our Thursday spotlight. It's a double decker diadem!

 The Countess of Villagonzalo's Meander Tiara
Bonhams

Spanish jeweler Ansorena crafted this tiara around 1900, just around the time that jewelers were beginning to master the use of platinum. The lightness and strength of the metal allowed for a delicate and intricate Belle Époque design. (Interestingly, Ansorena's archives note the tiara was conceived as early as 1890, just ahead of the rise of platinum.) The tiara includes approximately 33.5 carats of old brilliant, single, and rose-cut diamonds. The construction features millegrain detailing and knifewire tracery.

Top portion of the tiara
Bonhams

Together, the whole diadem is a lot of look - but it separates into two pieces, both of which can be worn on their own as tiaras. The top tiara has a band of meandering Greek key motifs in the center; forget-me-not flowers and trailing laurel leaves representing true love and the triumph of love fill out the rest of the piece.

Bottom portion of the tiara, as a tiara and as a necklace
Bonhams

The bottom tiara can be removed from its frame and worn as a choker necklace. It features a lacework lattice design with a central handkerchief motif.

Esperanza Chávarri Aldecoa, the Countess of Villagonzalo, wearing the tiara in the fashionable low style circa 1920, with an additional diamond tassel at the center
Christie's

Although not owned by a royal family, this diadem would have seen plenty of royal events courtesy of its owner, Esperanza Chávarri Aldecoa, the Countess of Villagonzalo (1893-1982). The Countess was a lady-in-waiting to Queen Victoria Eugenia, wife of King Alfonso XIII of Spain. Victoria Eugenia was another Ansorena patron; the jewelers created the Fleur de Lys Tiara among other Spanish royal jewels. (And they're still doing so, with the Ansorena Princess Fleur de Lys Tiara as an example.)

The Countess of Villagonzalo's diamond necklace
Christie's

The Countess' tiara passed down through her family over the years, and is now headed for the auction block. It will be sold at Bonhams London on September 26th. The pre-sale estimate is $100,000 - $160,000. It's not the only Villagonzalo jewel to hit the market this year: Christie's sold a diamond collet necklace - pictured above and worn by the Countess in the portrait above - for around $370,000 in June. A similar necklace was owned by Queen Victoria Eugenia and it is a part of the joyas de pasar, the jewels she left in her will to pass from queen to queen.

A two-for-one tiara: yes or no?

September 13, 2018

Tiara Thursday: The Nuits Claires Tiara

Our post from last week's French state banquet in Denmark was updated, but for those who didn't hear the news: Princess Marie's new tiara is a mystery no more! The details on this new diadem were uncovered thanks to the hard work of Heaven, who runs the Princess Marie's Closet blog (here's her post on it, and you can follow her on Twitter here; the blog is really the best resource for full coverage of Marie's events). She received information on this exciting tiara development from the Danish royal court and the jeweler, who also posted pictures and details on their social media. Naturally, we must give this piece our traditional Thursday treatment.

The Nuits Claires Tiara
Mauboussin

Called the Nuits Claires Tiara (or Lyse Nœtter Diademet), it is a new piece made by Mauboussin, designed in cooperation with Princess Marie, and loaned to her for use. The tiara is made of white gold in a vine-like design of leaves and flowers set with 13.35 carats of diamonds and 13.58 carats of sapphires. The sapphires color some of the flowers and are studded around the rest of the floral design, which wasn't immediately evident when the tiara was in use. The central stone is a pear-shaped Ceylon sapphire of 6.82 carats.

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When French jeweler Mauboussin decided to make a royal tiara, French-born Princess Marie was a natural choice with which to collaborate. Marie was involved in the full design process, and the tiara is meant to be a tribute to her adopted country. She also picked the tiara's name, which translates to "bright nights" or "clear nights".

DR1

Since the tiara itself is a connection between Denmark and France, it was only fitting that Princess Marie debuted it at the state banquet during the French state visit to Denmark. The sapphires and diamonds worn with her red dress combined to create a sartorial tribute to the French flag.

Tellement Sublime Mon Amour Ring
Mauboussin

For the French state banquet, Marie also borrowed a matching ring from the jeweler. The ring is a part of their existing Tellement Sublime Mon Amour collection. Many people wondered if the earrings she wore were also part of the set; they are not. She's worn those earrings for a few years.

DR1

Mauboussin owns the Nuits Claires Tiara and Princess Marie is able to loan it for use. This is an interesting arrangement that wouldn't work in many other monarchies, but has been embraced by the Danish royal family; Crown Princess Mary has exclusive use of the Midnight Tiara owned by the Ole Lynggaard firm, while Princess Marie has previously worn the Flora Danica Tiara under similar conditions. There's benefit here for the jewelers in publicity, plus potential other sales - the Midnight Tiara, for example, has been included in exhibitions and has a related collection for retail sale - while allowing a princess to wear a new jewel without public scrutiny of the cost.

I'm glad to see a blue stone tiara in the Danish royal family, which is something they don't really have. (Apart from Princess Thyra's Sapphire Tiara, which belonged to the late Princess Elisabeth.) I'd love to see Princess Marie wear the Nuits Claires Tiara with Queen Alexandrine's Sapphire and Diamond Pendant Brooch. And, really, anything that brings Princess Marie a little more tiara variety is good news in my book.

Does this modern tiara win your stamp of approval?

September 06, 2018

Tiara Thursday: Queen Margrethe’s Tiaras

Programming Note: As summer slows down, so does the blog. We'll be back on Monday.

As demonstrated in this week’s Tidbits post, Queen Margrethe is one of the most creative royals around. She selects and wears her jewels in creative ways, too, and she has a host of tiaras to play with. (As always, click the tiara name for more.)

The Danish Emerald Parure Tiara

Part of the Danish crown jewels, this tiara (and parure) is borrowed from public display at Rosenborg Castle when Queen Margrethe wants to use it. It’s only for use in Denmark and Margrethe has mainly stuck to using it for special events such as the New Year’s Court gala or big jubilee and birthday celebrations.

The Pearl Poire Tiara

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I group the Danish emeralds and this tiara of dangling pearls and a diamond frame as Margrethe’s two “big gun” tiaras, based on how she uses them. This one appears at the aforementioned extra special occasions and also at events like state banquets with other monarchies.

The Floral Aigrette Tiara

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Because it comes apart in three pieces, the Floral Aigrette Tiara offers Queen Margrethe (and her hairdresser) ample opportunities for creativity. She usually wears the top piece in a more upright position and the two side pieces flat against her hair; at other times, she'll use just one or two pieces to adjust to the appropriate level of formality.

The Baden Palmette Tiara

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The Baden Palmette's heart shapes have made it a natural choice for Queen Margrethe at a couple of royal weddings in addition to some state banquets and black tie tiara occasions.

The Danish Turquoise Bandeau

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Margrethe has an eclectic mix of turquoise jewelry at her disposal, both older pieces that go with this petite bandeau and newer pieces she received as gifts from her late husband (the brooch, necklace, and earrings above are these gifts). This small tiara has come in handy for some of her less formal state banquet occasions.

The Golden Poppies

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You can debate whether or not this falls in the tiara category, but no review of Queen Margrethe's headpieces would be complete without a mention of this...unique...item. It's perhaps the most Margrethe of all these pieces, since the Queen herself commissioned it from Danish artist Arje Griegst. The flowers can be worn individually as well.

The Naasut Tiara

Keld Navntoft/Kongehuset

This jubilee gift from Greenland, the newest tiara in the Queen's collection, is so perfectly suited to Margrethe's creative ways (see also: the Poppies above) that it's hard to imagine it worn by anyone else. It's still only been worn a few times.

Princess Marie's Diamond Floral Tiara

New Zealand Governor-General Office

Before Princess Marie's Floral Tiara was, well, Princess Marie's, it was in Margrethe's jewel box (and before that, in Princess Dagmar's). It's hard to tell apart from the Floral Aigrette. Perhaps that's why it was chosen as the perfect piece to loan to her new daughter-in-law in 2008.

The Alexandrine Drop Tiara

A former daughter-in-law was gifted Margrethe's 18th birthday tiara, and we still see it on Countess Alexandra when she attends big royal events.

The Khedive of Egypt Tiara

One final tiara is also not in Margrethe's collection, yet it played a crucial part in her tiara-wearing history: the Khedive, worn on her wedding day, as has become the tradition for Queen Ingrid's female descendants. It now belongs to Queen Anne-Marie.

Which one do you like most on Queen Margrethe?

August 02, 2018

Tiara Thursday: The Henckel Von Donnersmarck Emerald Tiara

When Sotheby’s sold this tiara in 2011, they called it one of the most important jewels they’d handled in the previous 30 years. The most important they’d seen since, well, the last time they auctioned the very same tiara. And it ended up setting a record as the most expensive tiara ever sold.

The Henckel Von Donnersmarck Emerald Tiara
Sotheby's

The tiara was commissioned by German prince Guido Henckel Von Donnersmarck (1830-1916) for his second wife, Russian aristocrat Katharina Slepzow. Guido Henckel Von Donnersmarck was perhaps the richest man in Germany and one of the richest in Europe at the time, and the family jewel collection was known to be impressive.

Sotheby's

The diamond base of the tiara showcases 11 large cushion-shaped diamonds with a hint of yellow to their color. These stones are surrounded by pierced and millegrain-set rose and brilliant-cut diamonds, with lily of the valley motifs between the cushion stones, a line of laurel leaves below, and swags above.

Sotheby's

The base of the tiara is a showstopper on its own, yet it merely plays second fiddle here to a top row of truly exceptional emeralds. These 11 polished, pear-shaped emeralds are graduated in size and add up to approximately 500 carats all together. Colombian in origin, they are perfectly matched and perfectly colored.

Sotheby's

They are also drilled all the way through the stone, a technique which can be a bit jarring to an eye accustomed to more modern settings, but which speaks to the long and illustrious history of the emeralds. Both the shape and the drilling method are typical of stones shaped in India around the 17th century, and these were likely a feature in the collection of a Maharaja or some other such figure. The emeralds then made their way to France around the 18th century.

Video: David Bennett of Sotheby's discusses the tiara

When the tiara was first sold at Sotheby’s in 1979, it was noted that by family tradition, the emeralds had belonged to the French crown jewels. The 1887 sale by the French government of the crown jewels did not, however, include many emeralds; it’s more likely that they may have been part of the personal collection of Empress Eugénie (1826-1920). A set of polished emerald drops were among the offerings when her personal jewels were sold in 1872. It is also known that Guido Henckel Von Donnersmarck purchased pearls from Empress Eugénie’s collection for his first wife.

Katharina Henckel Von Donnersmarck
Public Domain

The emeralds found their home in the Henckel Von Donnersmarck Emerald Tiara around 1900. The Belle Époque design isn’t signed by a jeweler but it is of the quality of the greatest French maisons; Chaumet is a likely candidate for maker. The family were patrons of both Chaumet and Boucheron.

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In 1979, the tiara was auctioned by Sotheby’s in Zurich. It came for sale again, from a private collection, in May 2011 at Sotheby’s in Geneva. The bidding soared past its lot estimate and ended up at $12,736,927, going again to a private collection. The price of well over $12 million set a record for the most expensive tiara ever sold. A fitting update to the history of the tiara Sotheby’s called “probably the grandest tiara to exist outside Royal, State and museum collections.”

 Do you agree that this one is grand enough to compete with the best collections?

June 14, 2018

Tiara Thursday: Princess Louise of Orléans’ Belle Époque Tiara

Princess Louise of Orléans’ Belle Époque Tiara
Christie's

Scheduled to be sold at Christie’s in June 2018, this intricate tiara was made around 1905 from old-cut, old pear-shaped and rose-cut diamonds set in platinum. It has an inner circumference of 21.2 centimeters. It belonged to Louise of Orléans (1882-1958), who was a Princess of Bourbon-Two Sicilies and, in 1907, married Infante Carlos of Spain, Prince of Bourbon-Two Sicilies.

Princess Louise of Orléans wearing this tiara
via

In the lot essay by Vincent Meylan that accompanies this diadem in the auction catalog, a possible British connection is laid out:

This diamond tiara was given to Princess Louise shorty after it was made during the first years of the 20th century. Its crescent moon shape is reminiscent of other royal tiaras. The first, with diamonds and pearls, was given by King George V and his wife Queen Mary to their niece, Princess Alexandra of Fife when she married her cousin, the Prince Arthur of Connaught, in 1913. The jewel was signed by Garrard, one of the jewellers to the British Crown. A second, very similar, with turquoise and diamonds, was gifted in 1926 by the same king, King George V, to his daughter-in-law, Lady Elizabeth Bowes Lyon, future Duchess of York. The young Duchess transformed it by removing the upper row of diamonds that “closed” the jewel. It is possible that the Infanta Louise’s tiara has the same British provenance. As well as the style of the jewel, two other factors also suggest this heritage. The French Royal Family have lived in exile in England for over twenty years, and for this reason the wedding of Princess Louise and Infante Carlos took place at Wood Norton Manor in Worcestershire. Additionally, at that time the French Royal Family is very closely linked to the British Royal Family. Queen Alexandra and two of her daughters, the Duchess of Fife and Princess Victoria, are in attendance at Louise’s wedding.

The turquoise and diamond tiara mentioned has been covered here: the Persian Turquoise Tiara (also known by other names) was last worn by Princess Margaret.

Christie's

From British connections to other connections, this tiara touched a lot of different titles while descending through Princess Louise’s family. Louise was a maternal grandmother of King Juan Carlos, but the tiara did not pass to his mother, Maria de las Mercedes. It was inherited by another daughter, Princess Maria de la Esperanza of Bourbon-Two Sicilies (1914-2005), who was married to Prince Pedro Gastão of Orléans-Braganza, a claimant to the Brazilian throne. Maria de la Esperanza wore her mother’s diamond tiara during the grand festivities in Athens in 1962 celebrating Juan Carlos’ marriage to Princess Sophia of Greece and Denmark.

Christie's

The tiara then went to Maria de la Esperanza’s daughter, Princess Maria da Gloria of Orléans-Braganza. Maria da Gloria was Crown Princess of Yugoslavia from 1972-1985, during her marriage to Crown Prince Alexander, and is now Duchess of Segorbe and Countess of Rivadavia via her second marriage. (We see Crown Prince Alexander around here sometimes, as he regularly appears at big royal events with his second wife, Katherine.) In 1982, Maria da Gloria sold the tiara at an auction in St. Moritz.

Christie's

Now it will be sold again, in the Important Jewels auction at Christie’s London on June 13, 2018. The diadem is labeled as an "Important Belle Époque Diamond Tiara" and has an estimate of $186,900 - $280,350.

May 31, 2018

Tiara Thursday (on a Tuesday): Queen Mary’s Diamond Bandeau Tiara

As promised, here's an in-depth look at the tiara that made a surprise reappearance on the Duchess of Sussex on her wedding day. Plus, some clarification on the difference between this tiara and similar bandeaux from Queen Mary’s collection – they’re easy to get confused!

Queen Mary’s Diamond Bandeau Tiara

Royal Collection Trust

The story starts with the detachable brooch that sits at the center of Queen Mary’s Diamond Bandeau Tiara. It dates from 1893 and is the oldest part of the tiara. The brooch is a classic style with a large brilliant diamond at the center, surrounded by nine brilliant diamonds. It was a gift to Princess Victoria Mary of Teck (later Queen Mary) from the County of Lincoln for her 1893 wedding to the Duke of York (later King George V).

Royal Collection Trust

Mary received a staggering amount of jewelry as a bride, including more than 40 brooches and multiple tiaras. Her wedding gifts still play a large role in the jewel collection of her granddaughter, Queen Elizabeth II. The Queen demonstrated the depth of that 1893 haul by wearing another one of Mary’s wedding gifts, the Richmond Brooch, to the Duke and Duchess of Sussex’s wedding.

Royal Collection Trust

Queen Mary commissioned this Diamond Bandeau Tiara specifically to fit the County of Lincoln brooch in 1932. This English-made jewel is crafted from large and small brilliant diamonds pavé-set in platinum, in a design pierced with interlaced ovals. There are 11 different sections to the structure, giving the bandeau flexibility. The tiara also includes clusters of 7 larger diamonds to each side, somewhat echoing the basic design of the central brooch.

Queen Mary, 1950

The County of Lincoln brooch is detachable from the tiara. Examples of Queen Mary wearing the tiara are scarce; some have wondered if Mary might have used a different centerpiece, but it’s difficult to be certain. It would, however, have been a very Mary touch to swap out the center. She is, after all, the one behind the flexible pendants of the Grand Duchess Vladimir Tiara and the changing centerpiece of the Gloucester Honeysuckle Tiara, to name just two examples.

A comparison: Four bandeau tiaras that belonged to Queen Mary

Queen Mary’s Diamond Bandeau Tiara was among several small-ish bandeau tiaras in her collection, most seemingly created or acquired in the 1920s and 1930s. These pieces can be easily confused, but the designs are clearly different, as you can see from the comparison above. They are:

1. Queen Mary’s Diamond Bandeau Tiara, our topic here (created 1932). Some called this tiara the "filigree tiara" in the past, before any official information was available.
2. Marie Feodorovna’s Sapphire Bandeau, which has similar overall shape but different design. This was last worn by Princess Margaret.
3. A small bandeau Queen Mary acquired in the 1920s and later used as a base for emeralds borrowed from the Grand Duchess Vladimir Tiara; the bandeau was left to the Kent branch of the family and appears to have been reconfigured into the Kent Diamond and Pearl Fringe Tiara.
4. Queen Mary’s Lozenge Bandeau, used as a base for pearls borrowed from her Lover’s Knot Tiara, and later worn on its own by Princess Margaret.

(This is not a comprehensive list, just those that have been covered here.) It seems that these were a used by Queen Mary for gala performances and other such events in her later years; smaller options for smaller events, I suppose.

The Duchess of Sussex

Royal Family Channel screencap

Queen Mary’s Bandeau Tiara went unseen for decades after her death, its whereabouts unknown to the public. Until, that is, it reappeared on Meghan Markle as she married Prince Harry. Queen Mary bequeathed it to Queen Elizabeth II in 1953 and it only took around 65 years to find a new wearer.

Royal Family Channel screencap

The Queen loaned the tiara to the new Duchess of Sussex. It worked wonderfully well as a wedding tiara, a statement piece to anchor an impressive veil that was also low enough to look good underneath a blusher as she arrived at the chapel. The base of the tiara was nicely wrapped for her in dark velvet so that it disappeared into Meghan’s hair.

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Some have asked if Queen Mary’s Diamond Bandeau Tiara will be a lifetime loan to the Duchess, a question that can only be answered by waiting to see if she continues to wear it. (Many brides do end up using their wedding tiara regularly; the Duchess of Cambridge is a prime example of those who don’t.) We could be in for a bit of a wait for her next tiara opportunity, given that Prince Harry is not a regular attendee at state banquets (his first was in 2017) and he has not attended the annual Diplomatic Reception. It took two and a half years to see the Duchess of Cambridge in a tiara again after her wedding. Until then, we’ll just have to delight in a sparkly mystery solved once and for all!

How do you think this bandeau did as a wedding tiara?

May 22, 2018

Tiara Thursday: Place Your Meghan Tiara Bets

It's been the most frequent post request of the past few months: Let's speculate on a wedding tiara for Meghan Markle! Or, if you don't think that she'll sport a tiara at the wedding itself, one for her future tiara needs. There's a poll awaiting your vote at the end...

Lots of people have asked me for my prediction, and my answer is that I don't really have one. I'm not really rooting for anything in particular; in this case - having seen soooooo much speculation already! - I'm perfectly content to wait and see what happens.

I have, however, compiled a few options and am more than happy to open up the speculation floor to you all. I picked six possibilities (and the question mark of a seventh) to lead us off and you can disagree and throw more into the mix in the comments. As always, click the tiara name for more information!

1. The Strathmore Rose Tiara: Resting in the vault, unworn for decades. Is this its moment?

2. The Queen Mother's Cartier Bracelet Bandeau: The bracelets are worn by the Queen today and the bandeau format hasn't been seen in decades. Will it make a big return?

3. Queen Mary's Lozenge Bandeau: We don't even know if this one is still lurking in the vault, but it'd be a lovely option if it was.

4. Queen Mary's Fringe Tiara: Some of you have ruled out anything for Meghan that's larger than what the Duchess of Cambridge wore. I'm not as fussed about that, so I can't resist throwing this one in. It's only rarely used by the Queen, making it one of the notable tiaras still looking for a regular wearer.

5. Marie Feodorovna's Sapphire Bandeau: Is it even an option? Question marks abound, but speculation makes it popular, so we'll toss it in the mix.

6. The Cambridge (Queen Mary's) Lover's Knot Tiara: A lot of people are hoping for the Spencer Tiara for a big Diana reference. That tiara is owned by the Spencer family. I personally don't see Meghan borrowing that on her wedding day, so I'm adding this option instead for those that want a big Diana reference. Obviously now worn by the Duchess of Cambridge.

7. Something New or New-to-Us: The seventh question mark option might be the one of the strongest. Sarah, Duchess of York got a purchased tiara; the Countess of Wessex was loaned a tiara we hadn't seen before her wedding day. Will something new be bought? Will something previously unknown be unearthed or newly assembled from the vault?

(By the way, if you're wondering why the Cartier Halo Tiara isn't on this list, it's because it's on exhibition in Australia at the moment.)

Place your vote below! The poll will be open through Tuesday at noon Eastern, and then we'll see what your collective guess is (if you can't see the poll, you may need to click through from a reader or email, or try a different browser).

May 10, 2018

Tiara Thursday: Marie Feodorovna's Sapphire Bandeau, Revisited

This is an obscure tiara, really; not hardly worn in the grand scheme of things. But, thanks to a hope that it might still lurk somewhere in the British vaults, it has also become an oft-discussed tiara. There are several question marks about this piece, though – it may not have come from Marie Feodorovna after all, the center may likely have been a removable brooch, and we don’t know where either part of the tiara is today – so it’s worth a revisit.

Marie Feodorovna's Sapphire Bandeau

Composed of a large central sapphire stone with sides of a diamond sunray motif, the tiara is first known to have belonged to Queen Mary (1867-1953), consort of King George V. The Queen's Jewels by Leslie Field says that the Sapphire Bandeau was among the pieces purchased by Mary from the collection of the Dowager Empress Marie Feodorovna (1847-1928), hence the name by which it is most commonly known (and is so called here, lacking any "official" info). But there's reason to question that provenance.

Queen Mary

Marie Feodorovna was born Princess Dagmar of Denmark, later marrying into the Russian imperial family. She was the sister of Queen Alexandra, wife of Alexander III, and mother of Nicholas II. She escaped Russia during the Bolshevik Revolution on a boat sent by George V, with some of her jewels in tow. After her death, King George V and Queen Mary helped her daughters, Grand Duchesses Xenia and Olga, secure her jewels and eventually sell them.

Queen Mary

The list of Marie Feodorovna's sold jewels does not include any tiaras, however, casting doubt on the reported provenance; most of the items were of relatively lower value ("day jewels", if you will), with pearl necklaces claiming the greatest value. But there were several sapphire jewels in the collection and Queen Mary did buy a few of those sapphires, so it's easy to see how the connection could be made. She is pictured above wearing the bandeau above with a sapphire and pearl choker she purchased from the collection. That necklace is now with the Princess Royal.

Princess Margaret (for more on this occasion, click here)

Wherever the tiara came from, it was next seen on Princess Margaret. (According to The Queen’s Jewels again, Queen Mary left it to Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, though she was never seen wearing it.) Princess Margaret wore the tiara only on a limited number of occasions in her early years. She also wore a brooch that appears to be a match for the centerpiece of the tiara. That brooch was worn through her later years.

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Princess Margaret wearing the sapphire brooch

The sapphire brooch hasn’t been seen since Princess Margaret died. The tiara hasn’t been seen since she wore it. Ownership of either piece is unknown at this time. (There's even the possibility that they ended up in two separate collections.) Will they be reunited? Will the Sapphire Bandeau reappear? The waiting game will have to continue.

May 03, 2018

Tiara Thursday: Queen Victoria’s Emerald and Diamond Tiara, Revisited

Programming note: We'll be back on Monday!

Our recent festival of Fife tiaras continues with an updated post for Queen Victoria’s Emerald and Diamond Tiara:

Queen Victoria's Emerald and Diamond Tiara
Historic Royal Palaces

Queen Victoria and Prince Albert’s shared love of art and design resulted in many an exquisite treasure, including jewels like her Sapphire Coronet and the Oriental Circlet. “Albert has such taste and arranges everything for me about my jewels,” Victoria wrote. This Gothic-inspired emerald and diamond tiara is another example, a piece personally designed by Prince Albert and commissioned in 1845 from the London jeweler Joseph Kitching for £1,150.

Historic Royal Palaces

Historic Royal Palaces

The tiara, nearly a full circlet in shape, has a base of cushion-shaped diamonds and step-cut emeralds topped by a graduated row of 19 inverted pear-shaped emeralds; the largest emerald weighs in at 15 carats. The tiara completed a parure of emeralds and diamonds previously gifted to the Queen by her husband, including a necklace with 9 clusters of emeralds surrounded by cushion-shaped diamonds, a pair of pendant earrings, and a brooch featuring a 20-carat emerald.

The parure: Necklace, earrings, brooch
Historic Royal Palaces

Queen Victoria was thrilled with her emerald tiara gift, referring to it as a “lovely Diadem of diamonds and emeralds designed by my beloved Albert” and writing of her husband’s “wonderful taste” in her journal.

The Royal Family in 1846, by Franz Xaver Winterhalter
Royal Collection

She chose to wear the emerald tiara in the family portrait she commissioned from Franz Xaver Winterhalter the following year, entitled The Royal Family in 1846. For that family portrait, she paired the tiara with a different set of brooches and earrings.

With the emerald parure 
Royal Collection

She was later painted wearing the tiara with the parure that exists today.

Princess Victoria of Hesse and by Rhine

Queen Victoria loaned the emerald and diamond tiara to her granddaughter Princess Victoria of Hesse and by Rhine in the 1880s; on that occasion, it was worn around a cap likely as part of a costume.

The Duchess of Fife, 1960 
British Pathé

The tiara ultimately ended up in the possession of another granddaughter, Louise, the Princess Royal and Duchess of Fife, daughter of King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra. The parure has since remained with the Fife family. It was worn to the State Opening of Parliament in 1960 by the then-Duchess of Fife, one of the only examples of the diadem in use.

Historic Royal Palaces

The family has allowed the tiara to be shown on exhibition – and, of course, has just now loaned it on a long-term basis to the Victoria Revealed exhibition at Kensington Palace alongside the Fife Tiara and the Fife Fringe Tiara. The rest of the emerald parure is also on show, ready and waiting for your admiration. It already has mine; this is one of my absolute favorite pieces. Magnificent.

Have the new pictures (or an in-person view, perhaps) changed your view of this tiara?

April 12, 2018